If you’re visiting the capital then you can’t miss lunch or dinner in Trastevere, one of the most beautiful and distinctive quarters in Rome! Here are 10 locales with fewer tourists where you can enjoy Roman food and drink — a truly unique experience.
Here are 10 non-touristy locales right in Trastevere:
- Da Enzo al 29
- Enoteca L’antidoto
- Tonnarello
- Pizzeria L’elementare
- Peppo al Cosimato
- Zia Restaurant
- Glass Hostaria
- Rumi Bottega Organica
- Freni e Frizioni
- Santo Trastevere
Whether it’s a business trip or a search for Rome’s treasures, your visit can turn into a gluttonous adventure of good food. The Eternal City offers an endless gastronomical selection and traditional Roman cooking. Its deeply-rooted origins make it a must for your tastebuds.
Here we suggest ten places where Romans eat and drink and where few tourists do. It’s one of Rome’s oldest and most distinctive neighborhoods: Trastevere, known for its peeling walls, laundry drying in the sun, and old building facades covered in ivy.
Our places of choice make quality their trademark.
Eating in Italy Like Locals
Whether it’s in a bustling city trattoria or a quaint countryside osteria, the flavors of Italy promise to delight and inspire. With this guide, you’re ready to navigate the Italian culinary scene, armed with the knowledge to order with confidence and relish every bite as the locals do.
So if you’re looking for a traditional Roman restaurant that’s not a tourist hotspot, in Trastevere you can satisfy your hunger with authentic Roman entrées and main courses, unique dishes prepared by Michelin-star chefs, as well as pizza, fried delights, and fine wine and cocktails. Ready to make your tastebuds rejoice?
1. Da Enzo al 29 — Via dei Vascellari, 19 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 065812260
Our top choice for authentic Roman dining is Da Enzo al 29. This beloved restaurant serves up simple, yet incredibly flavorful dishes made with the finest ingredients.
Don’t miss out on the iconic La Palla al 29, a mouthwatering combination of potato croquettes, baccalà (salted codfish), and mozzarella. Other must-try dishes include Pasta al sugo di coda (Braised Oxtail sauce), Carbonara, Roman-style tripe, meatballs in tomato sauce, and wild chicory.
Experience the true essence of Roman cuisine at Da Enzo al 29, where traditional dishes are prepared with passion and served in a welcoming, intimate atmosphere.
Da Enzo al 29 is open Monday to Saturday from 12:15 to 15 and 19 to 23; closed Sunday.
2. Enoteca L’antidoto – Vicolo del Bologna, 19 -Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 3423006808
Our second choice is Enoteca L’antidoto, a charming wine bar and kitchen tucked away in a tiny street in Trastevere. Since 2020, this welcoming establishment has been delighting locals and visitors alike with its friendly atmosphere and delicious food.
Step inside the rustic yet clean interior, adorned with wrought-iron accents and wooden bookshelves, and immerse yourself in a relaxed and informal setting. L’antidoto offers an impressive selection of over 200 wines, presented without a formal wine list, allowing you to explore their curated collection at your leisure.
The menu features a tempting array of cold dishes made with the finest Italian products. Indulge in Lucano Nero prosciutto (€6), a variety of charcuteries (€8.50 and €15), or a delightful combination of bread, butter, and truffle (€8.50). For a taste of Roman tradition, try the fresh porcini mushroom salad with parmigiano, olive oil, salt, and pepper (€10), or the classic puntarelle e alici (chicory and anchovies).
L’antidoto is a hidden gem in Trastevere, offering a delightful combination of excellent wine, delicious food, and a warm, inviting atmosphere.
Enoteca L’antidoto is open daily from 16 to 23, except Tuesday.
3. Tonnarello – Via della Paglia, 1-2-3 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 065806404
In third place, we recommend Tonnarello, a traditional Roman family-style restaurant with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. This charming establishment offers a simple yet satisfying menu of classic Roman dishes, including pasta, meatballs, and other local favorites.
Enjoy your meal indoors or al fresco, and don’t miss the opportunity to savor their generous portions of first courses served in copper pots. Some of the most popular dishes include Cacio e pepe tonnarelli (cheese and pepper tonnarelli pasta), Nonna Nadia tonnarelli, Carbonara, Amatriciana, and their renowned Carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes).
Pair your meal with a glass of organic Montepulciano wine and indulge in their delicious fried treats and fantastic tiramisu made with Gentilini biscuits. If you’re visiting Trastevere, Tonnarello is a must-visit for a true taste of Roman cuisine.
Tonnarello is open every day from 10 to 23:30.
4. Pizzeria L’Elementare – Via Benedetta 23 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 065894016
In fourth place is Pizzeria L’Elementare, a nice, cozy restaurant with a friendly waiting staff and nicely spaced out seating. Here’s where you’ll eat a real Roman-style pizza—thin and crunchy— with the best quality ingredients — while savoring a beer from their large selection. Their fried dishes are a real treat! Don’t miss their supplì (fried rice and meat balls) and their garlic, oil, and chili pepper spaghetti.
Pizzeria L’Elementare is open every day from 18:00 to 24:00; Friday and Saturday until 2:00 am.
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5. Peppo al Cosimato – Via Natale del Grande 9 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 065812048
Our fifth choice for off-the-beaten-path dining in Rome’s Trastevere is Peppo al Cosimato. This relatively new addition to the neighborhood has quickly gained a loyal following with its focus on traditional Roman cuisine, especially dishes featuring pesce povero (humble fish).
Expect to find a menu filled with delicious seafood options like anchovies, amberjack, and needlefish. Other highlights include squid ink supplì with octopus, paccheri pasta with red and yellow cherry tomatoes, and the catch of the day. Peppo al Cosimato’s motto, “fresh style with classic details,” perfectly captures the restaurant’s commitment to serving authentic Roman flavors in a modern setting.
Peppo al Cosimato is open every day from 12:00 to 15:30 and 18:30 to 24:00.
6. Zia Restaurant – Via Goffredo Mameli, 45 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 0623488093
Our sixth choice, Zia Restaurant, is a sophisticated gem helmed by the talented Antonio Ziantoni. This one-Michelin-star establishment offers an intimate dining experience that celebrates the authentic flavors of Roman tradition.
The menu at Zia is a carefully curated journey through taste and sensation. Expect refined versions of classic dishes, infused with a touch of contemporary innovation. The restaurant offers two tasting menus: a 7-course experience for €75 and a 5-course option for €55.
Discover the artistry of Roman cuisine at Zia, where tradition meets innovation in a truly unforgettable dining experience.
Zia Restaurant is open Tuesday to Thursday from 19:30 to 21:30, Friday and Saturday from 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 21:30. Closed Sunday and Monday.
7. Glass Hostaria – Vicolo del Cinque, 58 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 0658335903
Number 7 on our list is the renowned Glass Hostaria, nestled in the heart of Trastevere near Piazza Trilussa. Led by the talented Michelin-starred chef Cristina Bowerman, this restaurant offers a unique dining experience that blends traditional Italian cuisine with contemporary flair.
In a warm, cozy, and ultramodern setting, Glass Hostaria presents a menu of exquisite dishes that set it apart from the typical Trastevere trattoria. Chef Bowerman’s light and innovative cooking showcases the finest Italian ingredients, carefully selected for their quality and seasonality.
Indulge in a culinary journey that combines classic Italian flavors with international influences and unexpected combinations. The elegant dining room, adorned with gilded accents, creates a sophisticated atmosphere, while the extensive wine cellar offers a perfect complement to your meal.
For a truly memorable dining experience in Trastevere, Glass Hostaria is an absolute must-visit.
Glass Hostaria is open from Tuesday to Friday from 19:00 to 22:30, Saturday and Sunday from 12:30 to 15:00 and from 19:00 to 22:30; closed Monday
8. Rumi Bottega Organica – Via dei Fienaroli, 4 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 3394878393
Our eighth recommendation is Rumi Bottega Organica, a restaurant in central Trastevere that offers genuine, sustainable cuisine of vegetables, dairy, fruit, grains, eggs, legumes, bluefish, muffins and desserts, from small farms in the surrounding Roman countryside. They’ll entice you with their attention to detail, quality, and ingredients in creating their simple yet unique dishes.
Must-try seasonal side dishes:
- Whole-grain rice and quinoa (€5)
- Moist, savory muffins with squash, parmigiano cheese, and almonds or spinach, ricotta, and parmigiano cheese (€2.50)
- Veggie or bean flans (€6)
- Savory pies with ancient grains (€5/slice)
- Veggie lasagna and parmigiana with ingredients like carasau flatbread, zucchini, turnip greens, walnut and parmigiano, or creamy spinach and squash pesto, primo sale cheese (€6)
- Veggie burgers made with potatoes, escarole and olives or chick peas, chicory, and zucchini (€5)
Rumi’s mission to focus on fresh and healthy ingredients will give you a genuinely creative and conscious culinary experience.
Rumi Bottega Organica is open Monday to Friday from 09:00 to 22:00; Saturday from 09:00 to 19:00; closed Sunday.
9. Freni e Frizioni – Via del Politeama, 4 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 0645497499
Our penultimate choice, if you like a good drink, is Freni e Frizioni, a street cocktail bar in the heart of Trastevere that has helped keep the rite of the cocktail hour alive in Rome for eighteen years. You’ll find a lively bar with a wide variety of beers, an animated terrace, signature cocktails, and what makes this bar special: its bartenders.
Their skill and know-how in making cocktails with the best ingredients makes this a place unique. You can’t miss sipping one of their cocktails amidst decorative chandeliers and modern art while listening to alternative music or just sitting outside. Freni e Frizioni is one of the 100 best bars in the world! What are you waiting for? Come enjoy this magic atmosphere from sundown to the wee hours — You won’t regret it!
Freni e Frizioni is open every day from 18:30 to 02:00 a.m.
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10. Santo Trastevere – Via della Paglia, 40 – Trastevere – Roma – Tel. 3333807008
Last but not least: Santo Trastevere – a uniquely modern restaurant-cocktail bar with an international feel. Their bold international dishes and unique cocktails are served in an elegant ambience with a garden view.
Santo Trastevere is located in the heart of the Eternal City between Piazza Sant’Egidio and Piazza San Cosimato. Chef Edoardo Meuti’s culinary creativity exalts the fresh ingredients in his dishes. The menu is exclusively raw: tartare, ceviche, carpaccio, and sashimi. You have to try their Mazara red prawn carpaccio at €14 and their enticing Mariantonietta at €8 — white chocolate and vanilla bavarese with raspberries and almonds. To accompany your meal is a selection of wines and cocktails that will surprise you.
Santo Trastevere is
- Open Tuesday to Saturday from 18:00 to 02:00;
- Closed Monday and Sunday.
To Rome with Italo
Are you ready to embark on a gastronomic journey through the enchanting neighborhood of Trastevere in Rome? Whether you’re craving authentic Roman cuisine or seeking innovative cocktail creations, this vibrant area has something to tantalize every taste bud.
Gather your most adventurous dining companions and hop on a high-speed Italo train from any major Italian city. Arrive at Roma Termini Station, where you’ll find a convenient network of metro lines and buses to transport you directly to the heart of Trastevere.
Before you embark on your culinary adventure, consider joining the Italo Più Fidelity Program. With free registration, you’ll enjoy a 5% discount on your first trip and earn points towards a free award ticket.
So, pack your appetite and get ready to explore the culinary treasures of Trastevere. From traditional Roman trattorias to trendy wine bars, this charming neighborhood offers a diverse and unforgettable dining experience.
